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Finally, there's the fine regulating system this consists of a threaded metal curve on which rides a kind of adjustable nut which, when turned one way or the other, controls the position of the regulator sweep. The large upper jewel may or may not be functional – it's possible that it's a sort of cap on top of a more standard anti-shock system, but in any case it makes a trio with the upper jewels on the date and Memo cones.
![le coultre memodate pocketwatch le coultre memodate pocketwatch](https://assets.catawiki.nl/assets/2017/11/4/1/1/8/118fc5a1-a65b-41d4-b9be-bd8ea030f868.jpg)
The balance oscillates at 21,600 vph, and there's an overcoil balance spring held in place at its outer terminal by a really beautifully finished stud. The balance is quite large, with poising screws set into recesses in the rim. You'll also note a few unusual features in the regulating system. Once active, the Memo will retain the reminder configuration until midnight, at which time it will return to the "off" configuration in a process that takes about 20 minutes. When the Memo is activated (by the lower of the two pushers) the jewel visible at 6:00 matches the one atop the cone, to remind you of something – it could be that it's someone's birthday, or that you need to stand up and walk around once an hour if you have a sedentary job (take that, Apple Watch) or what have you. This is also a revolving cone, which is intended to act as an aide-mémoire, rather like tying a loop of string around your finger (does anyone do that anymore?) There are two jewels on either side of the cone – one is a ruby, and the other, a diamond. Just above the date "pyramid" as Claret calls it, there's the Memo function. The current date is shown sandwiched between two ruby pointers the idea here obviously is to make a date display that harmonizes with and emphasizes the three-dimensionality of the rest of the movement design. Technically, it's a digital date display but with a twist the ones and tens digits are shown on two revolving cones (adjustment of the date is via the uppermost of the two case pushers). The date display is certainly one you won't see just anywhere (in fact I don't think I've every seen this particular configuration anywhere else at all). While for much of his career, his time has been divided between his work as a complications specialist (particularly in the domain of repeaters and other chiming complications) he's increasingly been more and more visible, in the last decade, as the creator of unusual watches under his own brand name, such as the constant force Kantharos, the casino-on-the-wrist Blackjack, the magnetism-harnessing X-Trem-1, and the Margot ladies' complication, which lets the wearer play a mechanical game of He Loves Me, He Loves Me Not. However, his resumé as a watchmaker goes back quite a bit further than the establishment of his own watch brand – he began as a supplier of complicated watches to other manufacturers, starting in 1989 with the San Marco minute repeater, for Ulysse Nardin. If you have been following the saga of complicated watches in the late 20th and early 21st centuries for any length of time, there's a good chance you've run across his name, but in recent years it's likelier in the context of watches bearing his own name, than not. Christophe Claret is an enigma trying to not be one.